Like, so much better than Groundhog's Day.

Today is March 1st, officially the first day of spring in Moldova and the celebration of the season, Martisor. (Mertz-i-shore.) For Martisor it is customary to gift one another these little red and white pins with flowers that once used to be made by children for the holiday, but now are pretty much just store bought. They are to be worn the entire month of March and symbolize a blooming and prosperous spring season.

In town there was a Martisor festival in the “House of Culture.” A musical ensemble from Chisinau performed to an auditorium of frozen Moldovans and one (1) Americanca; the auditorium had no heat. The Martisor show was advertised (coincidentally strategically plastered on top of our women’s week advertisements) to begin at 4pm. When we (The Gym Director and I) showed up at 4pm, the bus from Chisinau had just arrived, and the stage was being set up with music stands and microphones, curtains open. This pre show process lasted until 4:50pm, when the curtains closed to then re-open and then the show started! First the little children in white dresses and tuxedos did a waltz to Moldova’s most famous composer’s most famous song. Then the Chisinau group went on. And on. And on.

Traditional Moldovan music is upbeat, frantic, and uses string and brass instruments, as well as, and most importantly, an accordion. It is like Klezmer fast-forward, a perpetual “Bumble Bee.” The women who sing the traditional folk songs use stern voices, sing with concern and a little Arabic twang. The men sing like a wink of the eye; smooth and confident. I like the music alright, but in small doses. According to Gym Director, I’m not the only one. He even went on to say, “it would be nice if there was a little more variety to the rhythm, instead of the same fast-paced bass line.” It’s like the musicians were given instruments and were told to play them as fast as possible, and continue to do so until the show is over.

I was really into the first set, I was into the second, but by the third, fifth, sixth, Gym Director and I were getting antsy, and colder. Unfortunately, with poor planning on our part, we had taken seats that exiting from would mean to pass the Mayor, the County Director, and the Director of Culture. A couple days before the start of Women’s Week, I knew better than to be seen walking out of their event. So we sat through it, elbowing each other and checking, re-checking my watch. When we left, we continued quoting the line that was repeated over and over throughout the show; “There is warmth in the heart, warmth in soul,” as if suggesting to the audience that yes, it is freezing in the theater, but let’s pretend it’s not.

All things considered, my first first day of Spring in Moldova was a success, and though the theater was cold, the sun was shining all day. (The snow started melting and the city was all mud, slush and wet but) what a beautiful Spring day!